"Ain't it a glorious day?  Bright as a morning in May?  I feel like I could fly!"  Today actually wasn't "bright as a morning in May" (it was very windy and a little chilly!), but I did "feel like I could fly." 

My day began with my Literary London field trip.  My class met on the steps of St. Paul's and then wandered past the site where Newgate Prison used to stand.  Newgate Prison and the surrounding area is, of course, central to Charles Dickens' "Great Expectations."  Pip's first description of London starts in Little Britain, works its way through Smithfield meat markets, and then makes its way past St. Paul's and Newgate Prison (where, later, he will visit Magwitch).  My teacher also pointed out the church where criminals would say their last prayers before death and the road they'd take from the prison down to the place of execution.  Apparently, executions were quite public affairs, and thousands would turn up to watch a criminal make his way to the gallows (stopping for last drinks in pubs along the way).  My teacher said that one poor bloke refused to stop at any pubs, and arrived very early for his hanging.  Five minutes after he had been hung, his reprieve arrived.  A beer or two would've saved his life!  :-(

We also saw the famous statue of blind justice, and the funny little monument erected to mark the west-most point of the 1666 Great Fire.  Apparently, people believed that, since the fire was supposed to have begun in a meat market, the Lord had sent the fire as a curse to punish gluttony.  After that, we passed St. Bartholomew's Hospital (the oldest hospital in London), and St. Bartholomew's Church.  My teacher claims that the choir is heavenly, and I may just go to the 6:30 choral service there this Sunday after church.  (We also saw a plaque commemorating the life of Sir William Wallace.  I don't really know who he is, but my classmates seemed to.  I took a picture of the plaque so that I can research him and then feel properly awed at seeing his monument!)

After that, we all headed to the Museum of London.  The museum is a fascinating place, but I was a little antsy since I'd already been there and explored everything in great depth only last week.   So as soon as our teacher released us to look around on our own, I headed off to Trafalgar Square.  I arrived just in time to attend the free, lunchtime concert at St. Martin-in-the-Fields.  I wasn't sure what to expect from the concert (I didn't even know who was scheduled to perform), but the church was completely packed.  As it turned out, the group performing was a young female vocal trio ("Eve") from Australia.  An announcer told us a bit about them and gave us a brief history of St. Martin-in-the-Fields (an old, Anglican church in which greats such as Mozart and Hayden once played!).

As the performers filed onstage, I thought, "Goodness, they're young!  How proficient can they be?"  I glanced at my program.  They were scheduled to perform several Renaissance numbers and a few brand new pieces written by young Australian composers.  As soon as the girls opened their mouths and began to sing, though, all my doubts gave way to sheer amazement and euphoria.  Their sound was incredible!  They blended seamlessly, and the high soprano floated effortlessly above the other two.  Their balance, timing, and attention to phrasing and nuance were flawless.  I was in pure heaven as I listened to pieces by Palestrina, John Dunstable, and Hildegard Bingen (all composers I studied in my Early Music History class).   Never once did the girls use a pitch pipe and never once were they even slightly out of tune.  I was amazed.  And the pieces were far from simple!  The Renaissance pieces had plenty of intricate counterpoint, and the newly-composed pieces had a great deal of difficult dissonance.  I was especially entranced by a piece called "Rise, Lady Mistress, Rise," written especially for the group by Australian composer Philip Hall.  It drew heavily on Renaissance techniques (open fifths, counterpoint, etc.), but it also integrated some fascinating modern concepts.  The dissonance was absolutely beautiful, and the piece was filled with such lovely gestures and wonderful harmonic moments.  I was literally in raptures.  I've got to get a hold of their CD if only for that song.  I wonder if they accept submissions from US composers?  I'd love to write and have "Eve" perform an a capella vocal trio of mine.

After the concert (I still can't believe it was free!), I headed to the University of Westminster where I was meeting Martin--the head of the entire Liberal Arts Summer Program--and his assistants (Tamar, Vibe, etc.)  Yesterday, I'd received an e-mail from Tamar inviting me and the other Arizona scholarship students to lunch.  I was amazed and flattered.  Apparently, John Parrott has had close contact with Martin, but I really wasn't sure how Martin would know so much about our particular group or why he would single us out among hundreds of students for a special meal on the school.  This London experience has been incredible; I've been amazed by how good relations are between Arizona and the city of London, and by all the opportunities our group has enjoyed as a result.  Things were so well organized on both the Rotary Club level and the University of Westminster level, and we have definitely been reaping the benefits.  I still sit back so often and feel completely amazed that I'm even here.  Why was I selected for this scholarship out of so many worthy students?  This experience is truly something I'll never forget, and I am so indebted to the wonderful people who made it possible.

The lunch itself was fabulous.  My meal came to over 15 pounds (a vegetarian platter, apple juice, and chocolate pudding), and Martin paid for it all!  The main course was very good and very satisfying (I don't often eat such a well-balanced meal!), and the chocolate pudding was to die for.  Literally.  Crystal and I ordered it on recommendation of one of the professors, and we weren't sorry.  We both sat groaning in pleasure during the entire eating experience.  :-)  "Chocolate pudding" turned out to be moist, moist chocolate cake drenched in a divinely chocolate-y sauce and served hot with vanilla ice-cream.  By the time lunch was over, I felt like I couldn't possibly eat for another week!  It was a thoroughly satisfying gastronomical experience.

It was also a thoroughly satisfying social and academic experience.  As we ate, Martin asked us for specific feedback about the program in general and our courses specifically.  I really praised the Literary London course, and Martin got a thoughtful look on his face.  Apparently, he'd been planning on cutting the course altogether next year since it doesn't draw many students, but he assured me that my comments were making him rethink things.  I'm glad!  It was would be such a shame to get rid of so fascinating a subject with so wonderful a teacher.   I also suggested that they offer a Musical London course.  I really do think it would draw a lot of US music majors, and Martin seemed to really be considering that idea as well.  Hurrah!  We all felt very privileged to be allowed this opportunity to give our input freely and to have it taken so seriously.  This is no ordinary group of people running the University of Westminster program; they really are exceptional, and we're so lucky to be connected with them.

After lunch, I ran (as quickly as I could with such a heavy stomach!) to the Tate Museum where I was able to browse for about an hour before it closed.  Unfortunately, I began in the modern section which, interesting though it was, meant that I didn't even get to see the John Constable landscapes or any of the more traditional art at all.  I'll have to go back tomorrow.

When I returned home, I checked my e-mail and found some lovely messages from my family and an e-mail from Kristine.  We're going to the British Museum and a ward picnic together on Thursday and the BBC Proms on Saturday.  We'll also be doing some sightseeing together next Tuesday.  I can't wait!

P.S.  I called Sir Alan Traill (a former Lord Mayor with an honorary music degree who has been in contact with me through John Parrott) the other day, and he is going to arrange some musical adventures for me over the next few months.  Once again, I can't believe all the incredible connections I am making through the Rotary Club!